When the temperature drops, two fabrics do most of the work in a sewing room: waffle thermal and fleece. Waffle is the textured knit behind henleys, sleepwear, and robes — light, breathable, and warmer than it looks. Fleece is the brushed knit behind hoodies, sweatpants, and blankets — soft, insulating, and the closest thing to wearing a blanket. This guide covers what each one is, which is warmer, what weight to buy, how to care for both, and what they cost by the yard.
What is waffle knit / waffle thermal fabric?
Waffle knit — also sold as waffle thermal — is a knit with a raised honeycomb texture. The little squares trap air, which is why a thin waffle layer feels warmer than a flat knit of the same weight. Our waffle thermal is 100% cotton, about 9 oz per linear yard, 60 inches wide, with mechanical stretch (the knit itself stretches; there is no spandex in it).
What it's best for: henleys, long-sleeve thermal tops, sleepwear and loungewear, robes, layering pieces, and baby clothes. It is a fall-and-winter fabric that still breathes — warm without the bulk of fleece.
What is fleece fabric?
Fleece is a knit with a brushed face — one or both sides are raised into a soft, fluffy pile. The brushing is what makes it insulating: the pile holds still air against the body. Most sweatshirt fleece is cotton or a cotton blend; the brushed side is usually the inside of the garment, with a smoother face on the outside.
What it's best for: hoodies, sweatshirts, sweatpants, zip-ups, blankets, and cold-weather layers. If a project needs maximum warmth and softness, fleece is the default.
Waffle vs fleece
| Waffle thermal | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Texture | Raised honeycomb squares | Brushed, fluffy pile |
| Warmth | Moderate — warmer than a tee, lighter than fleece | High — built to trap heat |
| Breathability | High — air moves through the open knit | Low to moderate — it insulates by holding air still |
| Stretch | Mechanical stretch, no spandex | Varies; usually moderate across the width |
| Best for | Henleys, sleepwear, robes, layering | Hoodies, sweatpants, blankets, cold-weather layers |
Rule of thumb: if the garment is worn next to skin or layered under something else, pick waffle. If it's the outer layer on a cold day, pick fleece.
Fleece vs French terry
Fleece and French terry get confused because both show up in sweatshirts. French terry has smooth jersey on the outside and uncut loops on the inside — it's the lighter, more breathable of the two, best for spring, fall, and layering. Fleece has a brushed pile and is warmer and less breathable — best for cold weather and lounging. Our French terry guide covers the full comparison; the short version is terry for mild weather, fleece for cold weather.
Fleece weights: GSM and what to buy
Fleece weight is listed in GSM (grams per square meter) or ounces. Higher GSM means thicker, warmer, and more structured.
| Weight | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 350 GSM (~12 oz) | Mid-weight, the all-rounder | Standard hoodies, sweatpants, zip-ups, blankets |
| 488 GSM (24 oz per linear yard) | Heavyweight, structured | Heavy hoodies, cold-weather layers, blankets that drape like a throw |
| 22–24 oz singles | Heavy, single-color fleece | Workhorse sweatshirts, outerwear-weight layers |
Our mid-weight is 350 GSM — the safest bet for a first hoodie — and our heavyweight is 488 GSM (24 oz per linear yard at 60 inches), 100% cotton with matching rib in the same colors so cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands come from one dye lot. The 22 oz camel poly-cotton and 24 oz natural cotton fleeces sit between the two.
If you're buying for a first project, 350 GSM is the most versatile: substantial enough to sew cleanly and hold its shape, light enough to wear most of the cold season.
How to pick waffle
Waffle is simpler than fleece — there are fewer weights to compare. Check three things:
- Fiber content. Ours is 100% cotton: breathable, soft, and easy to wash. Cotton waffle softens with wear.
- Weight. Our waffle thermal runs about 9 oz per linear yard — light enough for sleepwear and layering, warm enough for a henley. The white 360 gsm waffle knit is the heavier option, and it is PFD (prepared for dyeing), so it takes dye evenly if you want a custom color.
- Color availability. Waffle colors sell through — Cream, Fuchsia, Light Pink, Baby Pink, and Baby Blue are currently sold out, and Brown is down to its last yard. Check the listing before planning a project around a specific color, and ask about a swatch if color matching matters.
How to buy waffle and fleece by the yard
Before you order, check four things on the listing:
- Fiber content. 100% cotton breathes best and softens with washing. Poly-cotton blends (like our 22 oz camel fleece) resist shrinking and hold color; cotton-modal brushed fleece is softer and drapes more. If a listing doesn't state the fiber content, ask — it changes how the fabric behaves.
- GSM / weight. Match it to your project using the table above. If a listing only says ounces, check whether it means ounces per square yard or per linear yard at 60 inches — they are different numbers.
- Width. Our waffle and fleece are 60 inches wide. Width matters for planning how many yards you need — a wider cut means fewer yards for the same pattern.
- Swatches and returns. Order a swatch first if you can, especially for a big project — hand feel and color are hard to judge from a photo. We offer swatches on request, so ask before committing to yardage. And check the return policy: fabric, including cut yardage, can be returned within 14 days of delivery if it is unused, unwashed, and not cut further — a swatch still saves you a return.
For larger runs, ask about bulk pricing. Wholesale starts at one full roll — ask for a quote for your color and quantity.
How to wash and care for waffle and fleece
Both are low maintenance: machine wash cold, tumble dry low. For waffle, line drying also works well, and a low iron on the reverse sorts out wrinkles — avoid bleach. For fleece, avoid bleach and fabric softener (softener coats the fibers and reduces absorbency and softness over time).
Do waffle and fleece shrink? Cotton knits can shrink on the first wash, especially in hot water — which is why cold washing matters. Pre-wash your yardage the same way you'll wash the finished garment, and you'll avoid surprises. We don't publish a shrinkage percentage for these lines, so a test swatch washed your way is the honest check.
Does fleece pill? It can, with friction — under backpack straps, at the sides of a well-worn hoodie. Washing inside out, cold, and skipping fabric softener slows it down. Brushed fleece pills less than cheap fleece, but no fleece is pill-proof forever.
Sewing with waffle and fleece
Waffle is beginner-friendly: it doesn't fray much, it has mechanical stretch without spandex, and it holds its shape. Use a jersey or ballpoint needle so you don't cut the knit, and a stretch stitch or serger on the seams. The honeycomb texture hides small imperfections, which makes it forgiving.
Fleece needs a little more care: watch the nap direction (cut all pieces the same way or the color will look different from different angles), use a walking foot if your machine struggles with thick layers, and expect lint — clean your machine after a fleece project. A serger gives the cleanest finish on both fabrics.
Waffle and fleece at The Fabric Lot
Our Cotton Waffle Thermal is 100% cotton, about 9 oz per linear yard, 60" wide — $12.60 per yard — in Heather Gray, White, Hunter Green, Black, Brown, and Turquoise. (Cream, Fuchsia, Light Pink, Baby Pink, and Baby Blue are currently sold out.) We also carry a White Cotton Waffle Knit, 360 gsm at $14.70 per yard, dye-ready white.
Our fleece range starts with Cotton Fleece, 350 gsm at $15.23 per yard in Mocha, Red, and Gray — the mid-weight all-rounder — and a Cotton Camo Nature Fleece, 350 GSM at $15.75 per yard. The heavyweight is Cotton Fleece, 488 GSM (24 oz per linear yard), 100% cotton, at $21.00 per yard with matching rib at $10.50, in nine colors (Heather Gray sold out). Single-color heavy fleeces — Camel Poly Cotton 22 oz, Natural Cotton 24 oz, Heather Gray Cotton, and Heather Gray Brushed Fleece (cotton-modal) — run $19.95 per yard.
Every cut ships as one continuous piece. Swatches are available on request — ask about a swatch on any product page before you commit to yardage. Free domestic shipping on orders of $75 or more. For production runs, wholesale starts at one full roll; ask for a quote.
Shop waffle thermal and the 488 GSM fleece. Compare waffle and fleece against French terry in our French terry guide.
FAQ — waffle knit & fleece
1. What is waffle knit / waffle thermal fabric?
A knit with a raised honeycomb texture that traps air for warmth. Ours is 100% cotton, about 9 oz per linear yard, 60 inches wide, with mechanical stretch and no spandex. It's used for henleys, sleepwear, robes, and layering.
2. What is fleece fabric?
A knit with a brushed face — one or both sides raised into a soft, fluffy pile that holds still air for insulation. It's cotton or a cotton blend, and it's the warmest of the three common sweatshirt knits (fleece, French terry, jersey).
3. Which is warmer — waffle or fleece?
Fleece, by a clear margin. Waffle is moderate warmth with high breathability; fleece is high warmth with lower breathability. Pick waffle for next-to-skin or layered pieces, fleece for outer layers on cold days.
4. How is fleece different from French terry?
French terry has a smooth jersey face and uncut loops inside; fleece has a brushed pile. French terry is lighter, more breathable, and better for mild weather and layering; fleece is warmer and better for cold weather. Our French terry is 300 GSM ($16.80/yd); our fleece runs 350–488 GSM.
5. What GSM fleece should I buy for a hoodie?
350 GSM for a standard hoodie — it's the most versatile mid-weight. Go 488 GSM (24 oz per linear yard) for a heavy, structured hoodie or cold-weather layer. The 488 GSM line has matching rib for cuffs and waistbands.
6. What is waffle fabric used for?
Henleys, thermal tops, sleepwear, loungewear, robes, baby clothes, and layering pieces — anywhere you want warmth without bulk.
7. What is fleece used for?
Hoodies, sweatshirts, sweatpants, zip-ups, blankets, and cold-weather layers — anywhere you want maximum warmth and softness.
8. Do waffle and fleece shrink?
Cotton knits can shrink on the first wash, especially in hot water. Wash cold and pre-wash your yardage the same way you'll wash the finished garment. We don't publish a shrinkage percentage for these lines — a test swatch washed your way is the honest check.
9. How do you wash waffle and fleece?
Machine wash cold, tumble dry low. Waffle can also be line dried; use a low iron on the reverse if needed. Avoid bleach on both, and skip fabric softener on fleece. Wash fleece inside out to slow pilling.
10. Where can I buy waffle and fleece by the yard, and what does it cost?
At The Fabric Lot: Cotton Waffle Thermal is $12.60 per yard (100% cotton, ~9 oz, 60" wide); White Cotton Waffle Knit 360 gsm is $14.70 per yard; Cotton Fleece 350 gsm is $15.23 per yard; Cotton Fleece 488 GSM is $21.00 per yard with matching rib at $10.50; single-color heavy fleeces (22–24 oz) are $19.95 per yard. There is no stated minimum order for retail yardage; wholesale starts at one full roll. Free domestic shipping on orders of $75 or more.
Shop fleece · hoodie & sweatshirt fabric · French terry. Guides: best fabric for hoodies · LA fabric by the yard.