If you're making a hoodie or a sweatshirt, the fabric is the whole project. The pattern matters, the fit matters, but the thing you actually feel when you put it on — the weight, the drape, the softness, how it holds up in the wash — that's the fabric. Pick the wrong one and you get a hoodie that's too flimsy, too stiff, too hot, or that pills and sags after three washes.
This guide walks through the three fabrics that actually work for hoodies, how heavy to go, cotton versus blends, and how much yardage you need. Every product linked here is one we stock by the yard, with the real price.
French Terry vs Fleece vs Jersey: the three that work
Almost every hoodie is made from one of these three knits. They look similar on a bolt, but they behave very differently once sewn.
French Terry — the classic hoodie fabric
French Terry is the default for a reason. The face is smooth, the back has soft loops of yarn (that's the "terry" part), and it has a clean, structured drape that holds the shape of a hood and a kangaroo pocket. It breathes, it doesn't overheat indoors, and it looks like a proper sweatshirt rather than loungewear.
If you're making your first hoodie, start here. It's forgiving to sew, it doesn't slip around under the machine the way a slick jersey does, and it presses well.
Our go-to midweight option is Cotton French Terry, 300 gsm at $16.80/yd. It's 100% cotton, a true everyday weight — substantial enough to feel like a real hoodie, light enough to wear most of the year. It comes in a range of blues. If you want a solid neutral in the same weight, Gray Cotton French Terry, 300 gsm and Cream Cotton French Terry, 300 gsm are both $15.75/yd.
For something with a little more character, Gray & White Striped Double French Terry, 18 oz is 100% cotton at $15.75/yd. The double-face construction makes it a touch heavier and more stable, and the faded stripe reads like a vintage athletic sweatshirt.
Fleece — the warm one
Fleece is French Terry's warmer cousin. One side (or both) is brushed until it's soft and fuzzy, which traps air and holds heat. A fleece hoodie is the one you reach for on a cold morning. The trade-off is bulk: fleece is thicker, it doesn't drape as cleanly, and a heavy fleece can feel boxy if the pattern isn't drafted for it.
Fleece is the right call for winter hoodies, kids' hoodies that need to be cozy, and anyone who runs cold. It's a poor call for a lightweight layer or anything fitted — that's French Terry or jersey territory.
Our fleece pick is Cotton Camo Nature Fleece, 350 GSM at $15.75/yd. At 350 gsm it's firmly in heavyweight territory, so plan on a relaxed fit and a pattern with room in it. If you want the soft, brushed feel without the camo print, Black DTY Brush Fabric at $19.95/yd has a smooth, softly brushed face and a comfortable knit stretch — a good fleece-adjacent option in a clean solid black.
Jersey — the lightweight one
Jersey is the t-shirt fabric. It's light, stretchy, and drapey, with a smooth face on both sides. A jersey hoodie is a summer hoodie: the kind you throw on over a tee at the beach or wear as a light layer. It will not keep you warm, and it won't hold the structure of a heavy hooded sweatshirt — the hood will flop, the pocket will sag.
Use jersey when the hoodie is meant to be light. Don't use it when you want a "real" sweatshirt.
For a light layer, Sky Light Poly Cotton Jersey, 6 oz at $19.95/yd is a pale sky-aqua poly-cotton with a soft drape. At 6 oz it's genuinely lightweight — closer to a tee than a sweatshirt — so keep the design simple and relaxed.
Quick comparison
| Fabric | Best for | Weight range | Drape | Warmth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| French Terry | Everyday hoodies, first projects | Midweight (~300 gsm) | Structured, holds shape | Medium |
| Fleece | Winter hoodies, cozy fits | Heavyweight (~350 gsm+) | Bulky, soft | High |
| Jersey | Lightweight / summer hoodies | Lightweight (~6 oz) | Flowy, soft | Low |
If you only remember one thing: French Terry is the safe default. Fleece is for warmth. Jersey is for light layers.
What weight should you pick?
Fabric weight is measured in GSM (grams per square meter) or ounces. Heavier isn't better — it's just different. The weight decides how the hoodie hangs, how warm it is, and how it sews.
Lightweight — around 6–9 oz. Think t-shirt weight and a little above. Good for summer hoodies, layering pieces, and kids who overheat. It sews easily but won't hold a structured hood. Our Sky Light Poly Cotton Jersey, 6 oz sits here.
Midweight — around 300 gsm (the store lists it as 18 oz). This is the sweet spot for most hoodies. It has enough body to look like a sweatshirt, enough drape to be comfortable, and it works across three seasons. If you're unsure, buy midweight. Our Cotton French Terry, 300 gsm at $16.80/yd and the Gray and Cream 300 gsm options at $15.75/yd are all in this range, as is the Gray & White Striped Double French Terry, 18 oz at $15.75/yd.
Heavyweight — 350 gsm and up (around 20 oz+). Heavy, warm, and structured. This is the fabric for a serious winter hoodie or boxy streetwear silhouette. Our heavyweight French terry by the yard at 450 gsm (~22 oz) is the structured option with matching jersey and rib available as separate constructions.
A note on labels: shops measure weight differently, and "oz" on a listing can mean ounces per square yard or ounces per linear yard. Don't compare numbers across stores. Compare the feel. If you can, order a swatch first — it's the only way to know for sure how a fabric will behave in your hands.
Cotton vs poly-cotton blends
100% cotton is the classic sweatshirt fiber. It's breathable, it feels natural against the skin, and it takes dye beautifully, which is why the colors look rich. The downsides are real: it shrinks (usually 3–5% on the first wash), it wrinkles, and it can lose a little softness over time. All of our French Terry picks above — the 300 gsm, the Gray and Cream, and the Striped Double French Terry — are 100% cotton.
Poly-cotton blends (usually 50/50 or 60/40 cotton-polyester) trade a little of that natural feel for practicality. They shrink less, wrinkle less, hold their shape better, and tend to pill less than pure cotton. They can feel slightly less breathable, and they don't have quite the same soft hand as a good cotton terry. They're a good choice for hoodies that will be washed a lot — kids' hoodies, workwear, gym layers.
Our blend options include the Pastel Brown Poly Cotton Knit, 20 oz at $19.95/yd for a heavyweight hoodie, and the Sky Light Poly Cotton Jersey, 6 oz at $19.95/yd for a lightweight one.
There isn't a wrong answer here. If you want the softest, most natural feel and you don't mind pre-washing, go 100% cotton. If you want the easiest care and the most stable fit, go with a blend.
How many yards do you need for a hoodie?
This is the question that causes the most second-guessing, so here are straightforward numbers for 60-inch-wide fabric (which is what we stock):
- Kids' hoodie: 1 to 1.5 yards
- Adult hoodie, sizes XS–L: 2 to 2.5 yards
- Adult hoodie, sizes XL–2XL or oversized/boxy fit: 2.5 to 3 yards
- Hoodie with a kangaroo pocket, lined hood, or contrast panels: add about 0.5 yard
A few things that push the number up: a tall wearer, a longline or oversized pattern, a directional print (like a stripe you need to match), and any contrast fabric for the hood lining or pocket. If you're between sizes or using a print, round up — an extra half yard is cheap insurance against running short mid-project, and French Terry at $15.75–$16.80/yd means that extra half yard is about $8.
One more tip: buy all your yardage in one order. Dye lots vary, and two separate orders of the "same" color can be visibly different. If you're making a matching set or a hoodie plus joggers, order it together. And if your order is over $75, shipping is free.
A note on canvas hoodies
Most hoodies are knits, but there's a smaller tradition of woven hoodies — chore-coat style hoodies and heavy outerwear hoodies made from canvas. These are structured, wind-resistant, and much stiffer than a knit hoodie. They don't stretch, so fit matters more, and they're best for an overshirt-style hoodie rather than a pullover sweatshirt.
If that's the project, our Cotton Duck Canvas, 10 to 24 oz runs from $12.55/yd for the 10 oz Natural up to $15.70/yd for the heavier weights. The 10 oz is the right starting point for a canvas hoodie — it sews like a heavy shirting and breaks in nicely. Go heavier only if you want something that reads as outerwear.
Care and washing tips
How you wash a hoodie matters as much as what it's made of. A few rules that will keep it looking good:
- Pre-wash your fabric before cutting. 100% cotton can shrink 3–5% on the first wash. Wash and dry it the way you'll wash the finished hoodie, then cut. This is the single most important step, and skipping it is how a well-fitting hoodie becomes a too-small one.
- Wash cold, inside out. Cold water is gentler on cotton and on color. Turning the hoodie inside out protects the face of the fabric from friction and fading.
- Skip the high heat. Tumble dry low, or better yet hang dry. High dryer heat is what shrinks cotton and wears out elastic in cuffs and hems.
- Don't over-wash. A hoodie doesn't need a wash after every wear. Spot-clean small marks, air it out, and wash when it actually needs it. You'll double its life.
Putting it together
If you're making one hoodie and you want a straightforward recommendation:
- First hoodie, everyday wear: Cotton French Terry, 300 gsm — $16.80/yd, 2 to 2.5 yards for an adult. Midweight, 100% cotton, easy to sew.
- Winter or oversized hoodie: Cotton Camo Nature Fleece, 350 GSM — $15.75/yd, 2.5 to 3 yards. Heavy, warm, and cozy.
- Lightweight summer hoodie: Sky Light Poly Cotton Jersey, 6 oz — $19.95/yd, 2 to 2.5 yards. Light, drapey, and breathable.
- Something with character: Gray & White Striped Double French Terry, 18 oz — $15.75/yd, 100% cotton. The stripe does the design work for you.
- Heavy outerwear-style hoodie: Cotton Duck Canvas, 10 oz Natural — $12.55/yd. Structured and wind-resistant.
If it's your first order with us, code WELCOME10 takes 10% off. And if you need help choosing between two fabrics, reach out — telling us the pattern and the fit you're after is the fastest way to get the right recommendation.
Buying cut-to-order from Los Angeles? Visit fabric by the yard in Los Angeles or how to buy fabric by the yard online from LA. Shop hoodie & sweatshirt fabric · French terry · fleece.